In this fascinating 8-part series on BBC2 celebrating art & design in the UK, Shaun Leane was invited along to explore how Mary, Queen of Scots promoted her brand through jewellery and fine gold Scottish craftsmanship.
Mary, Queen of Scots by Nicholas Hilliard 1578
Mary, Queen of Scots
Mary’s was one of the most dramatic and tragic stories in Scottish and British history. The killing of one queen by another - Mary, Queen of Scots killed by her cousin Elizabeth I.
Mary was raised in one of the most sophisticated European courts, France. Whilst Scotland was ruled by the Regents, she was given a Renaissance education, judged to be appropriate for a Queen. She studied Latin and Greek, Italian and Spanish as well as developing a great love of music. She returned to Scotland to rule in 1542, bringing her vast culture back to her homeland and her many inherited cultural artefacts and fashions.
Mary, an intelligent, well bred, naturally confident, gregarious woman with natural flair and a sense of character and style that made her stand out in a crowd, was never fully able to develop in the shadow of her cousin, Elizabeth I and the political & religious wars of her time.
The Penicuik Jewels
Dating back to the late 16th century, these are some of the finest pieces of Renaissance jewellery associated with Mary, Queen of Scots and were long preserved by the Clerks of Penicuik, as relics of the Queen. The Penicuik Jewels collection includes a gold necklace, locket, and pendant.
The necklace design features 14 large oval beads with intricate filigree work which are divided by smaller circular beads. These beads would have originally contained perfume.
The enamelled locket is a more personal item of jewellery due to the painted miniatures showing a man and a woman, said to be Mary and her son James.
The final piece of the collection, a double-sided pendant depicting Mary herself, which is believed to have been formerly attached to the locket.
The Penicuik Jewels
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The Onyx Cameo Pendant
Mary, Cameo Centre
French or Italian Design Influence
The Decorative Back
The Onyx Cameo Pendant
This heart-shaped gold locket is suspended from three short gold chains. The outer case of the heart-shaped pendant is a late 16th century Scottish locket and features enamelled flowers and leaves in delicate greens, blue and white and is set with small diamonds and a native-cut ruby on the tail. The centre features Mary, in profile, carved into the semi-precious gemstone – Onyx, projecting from the supporting background which would have a French or Italian origin. Mary wore her cameo necklace for the protection she believed it offered her.
Though the history of the jewel is unknown, evidence exists that sixteenth century monarchs often presented mounted cameos of themselves as rewards or ‘marks of favour’. Given its elaborate nature the unknown recipient of the cameo jewel must have performed a deed of considerable importance.
With a twist, and an obvious fusion of Scottish and Continental craft, this pendant is stunning evidence of the circulation of materials and styles between France and Scotland at this time, and of the jewellers themselves moving between the two countries.
"Mary - on her return to Scotland - to be Queen was determined to restore court life and the image of prestige to the monarchy using her powerful education and experiences. Her beautiful image - fine clothes and exceptional jewels were crucial to restoring courtly power, so Mary’s jewels belong to the HEART of Scotland. "
